When installing artificial turf, creating seamless joins between sections of grass is crucial for both aesthetics and durability.

These joins, known as seams, come in two main types:

(Grain-Perpendicular Seams)

Head seams occur where two ends of turf rolls meet, running perpendicular to the stitch rows.

These seams are structurally sound but visually sensitive and should be used sparingly and only when necessary (e.g., managing offcuts or transitioning in tight spaces).

(Grain-Parallel Seams)

Side seams are the standard method for joining two rolls of turf laid out side-by-side, running parallel to the stitch rows (grain) of the turf.

These seams typically stretch across the longer axis of the installation area.

How to Seam Artificial Turf

• Lay the turf sections side by side, ensuring the blades lean in the same direction for a seamless appearance.
• To marry the seam, trim the edges at least three stitch rows to create clean, straight lines for better bonding.

• Place seam tape centered underneath where the turf edges meet.
• Ensure the adhesive side faces up and runs the entire seam length. Use spikes if needed to secure the seaming tape in place temporarily. Before moving on, ensure the turf has not moved, and the seam is still optimal.

• Carefully peel off the protective backing to expose the adhesive surface.
• Work in small sections to prevent premature sticking.
• Keep the turf slightly lifted while peeling to avoid debris or dust sticking to the adhesive.

• Carefully align the turf edges and press them firmly onto the adhesive. For best results, use 2-4 people and maintain an even gap throughout the process. Smooth the seam by hand to eliminate gaps.
• Follow the standard seaming process using the zipper method for a tight and secure seam.

• Place nails every 6 inches and 2 inches from the seam along the seam to provide additional reinforcement.
• Drive nails in at a slight angle to anchor the turf securely without pulling the fibres down.

• Place weight along the seam to ensure a secure bond. The best method is to use 2×6 planks weighed down with sandbags for at least 24 hours.
• Remove or hammer down the temporary nails holding the turf in place.

Inspect Blade Direction:

• Check the Pile Direction: Ensure all turf sections have blades leaning in the same direction to avoid visible seams.
• Use Weight for Drying: Place weights (e.g., sandbags) along the seam while the adhesive cures for a stronger bond.
• Leave a Gap for Expansion: Leave a small gap between turf sections to allow for expansion and contraction in extreme temperatures.
• Always Use a Sharp Utility Knife: This ensures clean cuts without fraying the backing.
• Take Your Time to Make Precise Cuts: Rushing can result in uneven seams.
• Inspect the Blades After Marrying the Seams: Ensure they are upright and uniformly aligned.

What Not To Do

Don’t Rush the Adhesive Application

Ensure the adhesive on the pre-applied seam tape is evenly pressed along the edges.

Avoid Visible Gaps

Misaligned edges or uneven trimming create noticeable gaps in the seam.

Don’t Skip the Seam Roller

Ensure the adhesive on the pre-applied seam tape is evenly pressed along the edges.

Don’t Overstretch the Turf

Pulling the turf too tightly can cause seams to separate over time.

Avoid Heavy Traffic on Fresh Seams

Allow adhesive to cure fully before walking or placing weight on the seams.

• Trim off the outer three turf blade rows before beginning your seam.
• Leave a 3/8″ gap between the pieces. Too little space can create a noticeable “mohawk” effect along the seam, while too much space can result in a visible “valley.”